Pag looks bare from the car window, but get out and walk and the island changes. Grey limestone, dry-stone walls, wild sage and the sea flashing on both sides: the hiking around Novalja is short on shade and long on views. Here is how to pick a walk that suits your legs, your shoes and the season.
Before you set off
Most of Pag is open, rocky and exposed. There is little shade, so from June to September start at sunrise or save the walk for late afternoon. Spring (April to June) and early autumn are far kinder; our month-by-month guide explains what to expect. Wear sturdy shoes (the stone is sharp), carry more water than you think you need, and check the wind forecast, because the bura can make exposed ridges unpleasant. Dogs are generally fine on a lead.
Sveti Vid: the island’s highest point
At 348 metres, Sveti Vid is the highest peak on Pag, topped by a small chapel dating back to the 14th century. The reward is a panorama taking in Pag, Kolan, Šimuni and Novalja, with Rab, Silba and Olib out on the sea. You can sign the summit book at the top.
- From Šimuni: the route starts opposite the campsite and is the more popular and more demanding one; allow roughly 75 minutes up on rocky, barren ground.
- From Kolan: a marked route through the Kolan valley, usually described as the gentler option; allow about 3 to 4 hours for the longer walk from the village through stone walls and maquis.
The local operator Pagtours also runs guided ascents from the Šimuni side; they recommend long trousers and sturdy shoes and ask you to book ahead. For the villages themselves, see Kolan, Mandre and Šimuni.
Life on Mars: the wild coast trail
The most dramatic walk in the area is the Life on Mars trail on the moon-like eastern side of the island, shaped by the bura wind. It loops from Metajna past secluded coves such as Ručica, with a short coastal via ferrata section. Komoot rates it hard, and says it needs fitness, sure-footedness and proper equipment for the via ferrata. Distances quoted differ between sources, so check the current trail map before you go, and stay on the marked path on the final descent. Read our full guide to the Life on Mars trail and the quiet village of Metajna.
Easy walks for lazy legs
- Lun olive grove: a gentle walk among olive trees said to be over 1,000 years old, in the north-west of the island. Routes range from about 3.5 km (an hour) to roughly 7.5 km (two hours). Here is our olive gardens of Lun guide.
- Straško loop: an easy loop of under 5 km from town to Straško with a swim as your reward.
- Caska and Sveti Juraj: gentle paths with Roman ruins and views over the bay; see Caska.
- Novalja harbour loop: about 7 km, flat, and good at sunset.
Good to know
When is the best time to hike on Pag?
April to June and September to October. In high summer, walk at dawn.
Is there shade?
Very little, except among the olive trees at Lun and near the coast. Bring a hat and sun cream.
Can kids do these walks?
The Straško loop, Lun and the harbour walks suit families; Life on Mars and Sveti Vid from Šimuni do not suit small children. More ideas in Novalja with kids.
Do I need a guide?
Not for the easy walks. For Sveti Vid or the via ferrata section, a local guide is a sensible choice. Still planning your stay? Browse where to sleep in Novalja.
