Everyone knows Novalja in July. Fewer people know it in October, when the queues thin out, the light turns golden and the island goes back to being a place where people actually live. If you can travel outside high season, autumn may be the best-kept secret on Pag.
Mild days, fewer crowds
Local tourism sources describe spring and autumn on Pag as comfortable, with daytime temperatures typically around 20 to 25°C: sunny and warm without the summer heat, with cooler evenings. The sea keeps some of its summer warmth, so a swim is still realistic in September and early October. Bring a light jacket for the evenings and be flexible, because the weather can change.
Walk, hike and cycle
Autumn is made for being outdoors. Pag has more than 120 km of marked cycling routes, including the Pag Lace Trail from Pag Old Town towards the Bošana and Sv. Nikola coves, and a ride to the Gradac viewpoint. Hikers can tackle the St. Vid trail to the island’s highest point at 348 m. For more ideas, see our guides to cycling around Novalja and the Life on Mars trail.
Olive harvest in Lun
On the northern cape of Pag, the olive garden of Lun covers about 24 acres and holds more than 80,000 trees, with around 1,500 said to be over a thousand years old. They are the oblica variety mixed with wild olive, and the area has been a protected botanical site since 1963. The olives are handpicked as late autumn approaches, and the harvest is one of the season’s local events. Fresh oil from Lun is the souvenir to bring home. Read more in our Olive Gardens of Lun article.
Taste the island
Autumn is when producers tend to open their doors. Expect cheese tastings at the Gligora dairy in Kolan, young wine paired with lamb at wineries such as Boškinac and Figurica, and seasonal menus built around fresh fish, lamb, olives and cheese. Events mentioned for the season include Pag Lace Days, the Cheese Festival in Kolan and Pag Gastro Adventure; dates change every year, so check with the Tourist Board before planning around one. Start with our guides to Pag cheese and lamb and the wines of Pag.
Spend a slow day in Pag Town
With fewer visitors, Pag Town is a joy: stone lanes, the Salt Museum, the Pag Lace gallery and the saltworks, all at an easy pace. Our day-trip guide to Pag Town has a suggested route.
Practical tips
- Many seasonal bars, clubs and beach businesses close after summer, so check ahead for what is open.
- Ferry timetables change outside summer; see how to get to Novalja.
- Pack layers, walking shoes and a swimsuit just in case.
- Opening hours for museums and tastings vary, so ask at the Tourist Board (Trg Brišćić 1, info@visitnovalja.hr).
If your idea of a perfect holiday is slow mornings, olive oil and empty coves, Novalja in autumn is simple experience of joy at its quietest.